I said no to this trip; sat at home in England, thinking about the risk, it seemed as though it would be greater than the reward.

Why would a nearly-thirty-year-old – who has never skied and has a layering system for mild UK spring conditions – want to relocate 5,000 miles overseas to minus 20 temperatures in Canada?

I moved to Fernie after months of persuasive tactics from my boyfriend who is working as a ski instructor for the season.

My partner – who is irritatingly great at everything he puts his mind to – has skied most years since he was a teenager while I have only ever made a snowman.

So, with the comfort of my expertise in mind, we both left our long term jobs and jumped in right at the deep end.

Myself, facing icy conditions and double ejections while my boyfriend ponders for hours – sometimes days – over which touring bindings he wants to buy next.

All of the above are equally as painful as another to experience as a novice. And, so is putting on your new ski boots for the first time.

With my discounted helmet, skis and goggles in tow, I headed out for my first lesson on opening weekend at Fernie Alpine Resort, slowly tackling the beginners slope, The Mighty Moose, on my bottom.

What a humbling experience, I thought. It’s not often in life, especially at 29 years old, you’re just as good, if not more wobbly, than a one-year-old at something.

It really hit home then how much there is to learn and it can’t all be learned overnight, despite wanting to, which is hard for someone who identifies often as a ‘Know It All’.

Now, six weeks on and bruises aside, the experience of learning to ski at a Resorts of the Canadian Rockies’ hill is more fun than I could have imagined.

Progressing onto blue slopes, slowly but surely, and sharing my highs and lows with the lift ops staff who have watched me move on from a button lift has been so encouraging.

There is a very friendly cheerleader atmosphere on the hill, which I rarely experience elsewhere, with staff, skiers and boarders alike wanting the best for each other.

I overheard one skier say the other day he had the “best time of his life” after the 40cm dump on January 6.

It begs the question: who wouldn’t want to be around people living their best lives?

It’s clear the audacity I had travelling to Canada and thinking it was all going to be easy is rather funny.

My advice to anyone who hasn’t skied would be to put your ego and frustrations aside and keep getting up, despite the conditions.

Though, to some onlookers, putting my frustrations aside might have looked like throwing my poles in the air and laying on the ground. A talent I do exclusively share with one year olds.

If toddlers and people in their later lives can ski, then so can I, and so can you. It’s never too late to try.

Two things are for certain, though; legend – or the ‘lifty’s’ have it – that snow is always on its way, even if it’s not.

And, taking lessons from a loved one – despite being together for a decade – is never, ever advised.

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Information about the Fernie Winter Sports School.

What makes Fernie amazing is different than what most cities care to boast about. 

I moved here (basically) sight unseen. Having visited here once before (and when I had pneumonia), I didn’t have much to go off of. Yet, I was drawn to Fernie in a way that is difficult to describe. I’ve lived all over the world, but something about Fernie feels just right. 

I love how the town’s energy and community follow the seasons. The anticipation of winter and spring skiing, the dog days of summer, and the cooling and calming sense of Fall. There’s always an adventure to be had—or not. Unlike other mountain towns, I enjoy that Fernie doesn’t have a pretentious vibe that’s out to shame anyone who’s not pursuing a FKT (fastest-known time). If you want to get after it, there are folks for that. If you don’t, there are folks for that, too! Fernie even has its own “Leisure Athletes” club. Pretty darn special, if you ask me.   

The first time my parents visited, my Dad took a photo of the Lizard Range and shared it on social media. Instantly, his friends worldwide commented, “Wow!” and “Your daughter is so lucky to live there!” 

Claire enjoying the Fernie powder!

They’re not wrong. We are all lucky to live here. But is it luck? What makes Fernie special is that it’s an intentional place you want to spend your time. What Fernie lacks in major shopping or stuffy social events makes this place incredible. You don’t come here for the Aspen glamour or the Whistler glitz. Traveling here isn’t exceptionally easy, and it’s not frustratingly difficult. It’s just right, nestled in the mountains and hidden from all too many.

As the famous Jerry Garcia once said, “We would all like to be able to live an uncluttered life, a simple life, a good life.”

Not only because I’m a huge Dead Head, but I think Jerry was onto something. When I have visitors, the realization that Fernie’s life is what Jerry was thinking of hits my brain like the glint of brilliant snow crystals on a splitting blue powder day. When you go on vacation, the complicated plans most destinations require melt away here. It’s as simple as getting up in the morning, grabbing a bagel from Big Bang, and heading to the ski hill. You’re in line for the chairlift, and it’s smiles. It’s friendly. It’s passionate skiers and snowboarders lined up to have a good ol’ time. There’s a ‘frothing’ that emanates excitement, but it’s an encouraging and happy energy.

I like that living in this town means it’s small enough that you recognize people but big enough that you don’t know everyone. The most contentious argument you might engage with is “Old Side” or “New Side” (the two sides to Fernie Alpine Resort), but regardless of which you prefer, the skiing will be fabulous, and the views are endless. 

One of my favorite memories from skiing Fernie is following a couple of long-time locals down through Red Tree and into some snakey tree run when my friend yelled back, “It’s like Star Wars! You have to make the ‘pew-pew’ noises as you ski through!” Skiing is about having fun, and I loved that that moment was pure, unadulterated fun. 

On the adulterated fun side of things, this town loves to have a great time. For me, Griz Bar is one of those special places where walking in feels like a warm hug. You love to have that feeling of being enveloped in deep winter, and Griz Bar, in peak winter, is one of the best places on earth. Worries melt away, and there are loud cheers, hockey on the TV, and new friends being made between tables exchanging shot-skis. Staring up at the wall of fame photos, you are transported to an effortless time of good vibes and a pure love of sliding on snow. I probably shouldn’t write this, but honestly, it’s one of the best bars in the world. 

The character of this town is dynamic and should be celebrated. Whatever you seek, you shall find in Fernie. 

Claire Smallwood